14
Sep 15

Another redo – Simplicity 1198

I made Simplicity 1198 view E a few months ago. Ugh… Big FAIL! I struggled with the slithery rayon/lycra jersey. Just looking at it the wrong way made it pucker. I made a size XS, but easily could have gone down to the smallest size, a XXS. The thing turned out huge. The neckline was weirdly wide and unflattering. The drape at the right side made a pocket-like thing that hit me at the wrong place making me look 10 lbs heavier. It was just wrong all the way around and into the time-out corner it went.

After my winner redo last week I dug it back out to give it another go. The drape needed to come off so I slit the right side seam from bottom to armpit. That made the drape section fall down at a diagonal. I could have hemmed it and left it that way (with a bit of evening-up) but I wanted something else. Rayon knits tend to hit the tummy area and hang there. Any bit of muffin top ends up with a banner on it. So I thought making a knot with the excess fabric at the side would serve as a bottom band for the top, helping the fabric to flow over the belly instead of sticking there. It worked 🙂

Then I wanted a bit of contrast to break up all the orange so I did a reverse coverstitch around the neckline and sleeve hems, right over the original non-reverse coverstiching I previously did.

I didn’t take up the neckline or take in the sides (other than re-sewing the right side seam with a 1/4″ seam, but the new version fits better everywhere. Must be some kind of magic in that knot!

chango top


09
Sep 15

Vogue 9112 Cirque dress – redo, and LOVE!

Who said there are no second chances? Not me! Here’s my V9112 Cirque dress redo:

Cirque NEW front

Cirque NEW back

Love, love, love it!!!!

If you’re wondering what the first one looked like here it is…

To do this first I removed the side seam pockets (yes I cried a bit here, I’m a pocket lover). I needed to do this because the next thing was to cut dress horizontally (front and back) about 6″ under the arm hole. I played a bit, holding it up to find the optimal length, finally cutting about 4″ off the bottom part at that cut (the plain blue fabric). Then I took in the side seams on the bottom portion of the dress to match the circumference of the top portion, tapering to nothing at the hem. I sewed the top and bottom together with a 3/4″ seam allowance just in case I wanted more length, but never needed it. Then I took some length off the front hem only – maybe 2″ right in front, tapering to nothing at the sides.

Cirque front detail

Here is the seam I added just under the bust.

Cirque shoulder detail

At the shoulder I tucked under about 1 1/2″ and just sewed it down. I’d like to add some interesting buttons here when I find the right ones. You can see the random tucks and puckers I took with the collar after flipping the edge down. I really love the airiness of the collar this way, rather than standing up more. I see my collar serging is peeking out…it doesn’t do this when I wear it – I promise!

Here’s before and after:

Cirque before & after

Big difference! I can see that the initial lengthening of the dress is not what caused my problem. I’m short waisted and needed some of the fabric taken up and out for it to fit my frame better. That and I like to wear tunics more than dresses!

Don’t give up on your projects that don’t initially work out. It may actually be a jewel in the making!